Diving the Farne Islands: Scotland’s Best Grey Seal Dive
April 16, 2025
When we discovered that Scotland was a magnet for basking sharks, it became an immediate addition to our expedition trail. The idea of seeing one of these gentle giants in the wild—and meeting the people who have dedicated their lives to studying them—felt like a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. As the second-largest fish in the sea, after the whale shark, basking sharks are simply shocking creatures. They glide through the water, feeding on plankton with their massive, gaping mouths, and can weigh up to 5,200 kilograms (11,464 pounds.) The largest ever recorded, a colossal 12.27 meters (40.3 feet) long, was found off the coast of Canada—reminding us that these sharks are widespread and can be found in the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean Sea, and even as far as Australia in the South Pacific Ocean.
In Scotland, the west coast’s Sea of the Hebrides offers ideal conditions for basking sharks during the summer months. Here, these creatures live up to their name, basking near the surface in warm months as they filter-feed on plankton. It is an iconic spectacle, but given our September arrival date, it was not one we were fated to see this time around. By the time we would reach Scotland in autumn, the basking sharks would be long gone.
But we were certain Scotland’s underwater world had more than just that to offer us, and we were determined to find out more about it. Often, when one charismatic species steals the spotlight, it creates space to explore lesser-known marvels and uncover stories waiting just off the more traveled path.
Top Places To Go Diving in Scotland
Diving in Scotland, however, is not for the faint of heart. The community is tight-knit, not due to a lack of great dive sites, but because the conditions are intensely cold … and all year round. Water temperatures range from 4°C (39°F) in winter to 14°C (57°F) in the summer’s peak, making a dry suit non-negotiable.
While I have braved 10-13°C (50-55°F) waters in a 7mm wetsuit before, staying down for more than 30 minutes feels next to impossible, and surfacing leaves you chilled to the core. Scottish diving requires a hardy, dedicated spirit and a genuine love for exploring the unknown. Leaving leisurely warm-water diving behind, diving in Scotland is an adventure that rewards those who are willing to take it on.
1.Scapa Flow
Scotland’s most epic dive sites are scattered across the country, making cross-country travel an essential part of the experience. Take Scapa Flow in the remote Orkney Islands, for example. Renowned globally for its extraordinary wreck diving, it is a top pick and frequently appears on "best dive site" lists for Scotland. This underwater time capsule of maritime history holds the scuttled remains of the German High Seas Fleet from World War I. With wrecks spanning shallow to deep waters, Scapa Flow caters to a range of experience levels, and its excellent visibility and well-preserved wrecks make it a truly remarkable spectacle among Scotland’s diving opportunities.
2.St Abbs and Eyemouth
Then there is diving in St Abbs and Eyemouth marine reserve on Scotland’s southeastern coast as another standout. Featuring dramatic cliffs, kelp forests, and differentiated underwater ecosystems, it is considered one of those ideal shore diving destinations. Here, divers can encounter wolffish, lobsters, and cold-water anemones, particularly in summer when visibility is at its best. Easily accessible from Edinburgh, this spot is a favorite among the locals. Unfortunately, when we arrived, severe weather dashed our plans, leaving us to only imagine what we had heard so much about from the locals.
3.Isle of Skye and St. Kilda
Further afield, the Isle of Skye and St. Kilda are considered more so as Scotland’s "vacation destinations." The Isle of Skye features the wreck of the SS Chadwick, more kelp forests within Loch Bay, and underwater landscapes complete with caves, pinnacles, and steep drop-offs—or so we are told!
Meanwhile, St. Kilda is known to have some of the clearest waters in Europe, with puffins scattered among towering cliffs—while caves and incredible natural stone arches lie beneath to complete the vista. For a more tranquil dive, Loch Long, near Glasgow, offers calm conditions with sites like Conger Alley and the A-Frames. Here, the waters are rich with marine life such as squat lobsters and conger eels, if you are looking to stay a bit closer to the city.
4.Oban and the Isle of Mull
But of course, no list is complete without mentioning diving in Oban and the Isle of Mull, both of which are considered diving paradises. They offer a range of sites—from iconic wrecks like the Breda, Thesis, Hispania, and the Rondo. Beyond shipwrecks, Oban’s temperate reefs are another site for kelp, soft coral, and underwater walls.
In the nearby Firth of Lorne, a special area of conservation, you will find drift dives near the famous Corryvreckan whirlpool. There are also what are called "sheltered sea lochs", offering encounters with nudibranchs, squat lobsters, serpulid reefs, and the famed fireworks anemone. And this also just happens to be where you launch from to see basking sharks in the summer.
5.Seahouses and diving the Farne Islands
While the draw of Oban and Mull was undeniable, we felt compelled to venture even further from the beaten path. This is how we found ourselves heading an hour and a half outside of Edinburgh to a place called Seahouses, with a plan of diving the Farne Islands. We had arrived just in time for one of the seasonal highlights of diving the Farne Islands: the Atlantic grey seals getting ready for pupping season.
The journey down the Northumberland coast was a wildlife enthusiast’s dream—a 40-mile stretch brimming with opportunities for spotting unique species. This part of the North Sea, where the small Farne Islands sit and where we were heading, is known for its dramatic and often ferocious conditions. Yet between March and October, there is a generous window for boat trips and diving the Farne Islands, unveiling a world teeming with life both out at sea and on the islands themselves.
While Scotland’s frequent low-pressure systems often bring a brooding, medieval ambiance to its landscape, exploring and diving the Farne Islands reminds you that even the gloomiest days are worth venturing outside to explore. Typically, it is the puffin colonies here that draw birding enthusiasts from all over the world, but at this time of year, it was all about the seals.
Despite the utterly frigid conditions of those Scottish waters, we were more than eager to take our impending plunge. But what exactly was so alluring beneath the surface to risk hypothermia?
Well, these islands host one of England’s largest colonies of Atlantic grey seals, a species vital to the region’s marine ecosystems and cultural history. With approximately 2,500 pups born annually, the Farnes serve as a crucial breeding ground.
The Farne Islands host one of England’s largest colonies of Atlantic grey seals, with approximately 2,500 pups born annually.
This species is vital to the region’s marine ecosystems and cultural history, and the Farnes serve as a crucial breeding ground.
To put it in perspective, the Monach Islands in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides support 20% of Britain’s grey seal pups, cementing the UK’s role as home to 40% of the global population. Historically, these seals were hunted by monks in the 12th century for their oil and luxury meat, a practice that persisted until the 1500s.
Today, they face more modern threats, such as storms that can devastate the nearby low-lying islands, stripping pups of their preferred habitats. Despite their abundance locally, grey seals are rare on a global scale, a reality that has spurred organizations like the National Trust to prioritize their protection, and spurred our interest in diving with them while in Scotland.
Diving The Farne Islands
After about thirty minutes on the vessel, we arrived in the middle of the archipelago—15 or 28 islands depending on the tide and time of day. The plan was to dive the inner archipelago since the outer areas were being pummeled by waves and chop. Sticking closer to shore offered more protection and slightly calmer conditions below the surface. Overhead, flocks of seabirds wheeled through the sky—a fitting sight given that 23 different species call these islands home. Yet, despite the avian sights, there was still no sign of the grey seals.
Our first dive took us to a shipwreck, one of many in this historically treacherous area for vessels. Most of the wrecks here are nothing more than skeletal remains, as many of the ships deceased here were made of wood. One of the more notable wrecks is the Somali, a 6,810-ton passenger-cargo steamer bombed en route to Hong Kong. But regardless of the ship graveyard, the underwater world was alive, with kelp beds swaying in the cold currents and various cold-water species making quick appearances. We kept catching glimpses of shadowy shapes moving around us, sparking hope, but dismissed them as wishful thinking.
It was not until our second dive, at a site called the Hopper, that the seals made their presence truly felt. Splashing and movement surrounded us before we even entered the water, and while we still had not spotted them outright, their activity was unmistakable. They darted through the water at impressive speeds (up to 35 kph /22 mph), adding to our anticipation.
This site is a well-known grey seal colony, with divers entering through a narrow passageway, or fissure, between kelp-covered boulders. The current around the fissure was ripping, so precision and awareness were critical—one misstep could drag you deeper into more dangerous waters.
Adding to our excitement was the warning we had received about the seals themselves: they are known to try and take your dive gear.
With females reaching up to 7.5 feet long and 550 pounds, and males even larger, it is a humbling reminder that we humans pale in comparison to their size and strength.
As we navigated the cold, narrow passage, the shadowy figures grew closer. Suddenly, it became clear that we were not just diving near seals—we were completely surrounded. They zipped past us in every direction with quick and deliberate movements, while we could only catch fleeting glimpses of their obscured figures.
The dense kelp in the shallows eventually forced us to surface, and as soon as we broke through, we were met with the sight we had been waiting for. Enormous heads glared back at us; their watchful eyes fixed on our every movement.
These were the leaders of the colony, their massive forms demanding the attention of their colony, and of course, of us. The fissure we had swam through was about 3 meters (10 feet) wide and stretched for 300 meters (984 feet).
We counted at least 40 grey seals, including tiny pups. It was a breathtaking moment, where the seals ruled the water, and we were merely visitors in their domain.
For an hour, we stayed with the seals, immersed in their topside and underwater world. Juvenile males darted around us in playful bursts, leaping from land to sea, while the imposing adult males followed our movements with an air of curiosity from behind.
It is estimated that around 3,000 pups are born each autumn on the Farne Islands, and the season was only just beginning when we arrived. Mothers kept their watchful eyes on their young as we moved carefully through the fissure, our hands and faces growing numb from the cold. This was a firm reminder that, while we may want to, it is essential to never approach seals directly—keeping a respectful distance ensures their comfort and allows for natural, undisturbed interactions.
Our quest to see basking sharks in Scotland may have been a seasonal miss, but diving the Farne Islands with curious grey seals proved just as special. Navigating icy waters alongside these majestic creatures and witnessing the start of pupping season was a powerful reminder of why we choose to venture beyond the ordinary.
Scotland’s underwater world is as rugged and captivating as its landscapes, offering challenges that reward us with moments like this. If you are diving in Scotland, then this experience belongs on your version of the "must-see" list.
Ready for an unforgettable dive with grey seals? Start planning your adventure now:
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Andi Cross is an SSI Ambassador and lead of the Edges of Earth expedition, highlighting stories of positive ocean progress and how to explore the world more consciously. To keep up with the expedition, follow the team on Instagram, LinkedIn, TikTok, YouTube, and their website.