SSI x Edges of Earth: Diving Merida’s Exceptional Cenotes
April 30, 2025
We have been asked time and time again for our "best of" list when it comes to diving. While this is not easy to put together, there is one place that always stands out: Merida, Mexico. Situated at the northern tip of the Yucatan Peninsula, Merida does not always get the attention of its neighbors or even Mexico’s west coast. But for us, this quieter corner of the country stands out as one of the region’s best diving without a doubt.
What we love most is how Merida feels somehow untouched by the wave of mass tourism—even as the largest city on the peninsula. In contrast, places like Cozumel, Tulum, Cancun, and Playa del Carmen have seen tourism rise significantly. It is no wonder so many people flock to this limestone coast, a place that was once a submerged reef eons ago. Its natural beauty, rich culture, and deep sense of mystery make it one of the most accessible wonders for travelers from the western hemisphere.
What Makes Merida So Special?
Merida is home to an intricate system of cenotes that lie just beneath the surface. These freshwater sinkholes, formed by the collapse of porous limestone, are a geological phenomenon that occupies the wildest dreams of many divers. Beneath the Yucatan Peninsula also lies the longest subterranean river system ever discovered, connecting cenotes in ways that have baffled the scientific and diving communities that study them.
Diving these natural wonders is an otherworldly experience: crystal-clear water, dramatic light rays cutting through the darkness, and an enveloping stillness that feels untouched by time. Unlike ocean dives, these underwater worlds offer a uniquely tranquil environment that cannot be found on this scale anywhere else.
What makes Merida’s cenotes even more remarkable is their cultural and spiritual significance. For the Maya, these were sacred portals to the underworld, Xibalba, connecting the living to the divine.
Each cenote has its own personality—cavernous chambers, narrow passages with ancient stalactites, and archaeological remnants like pottery, bones, and fossils.
Diving here becomes much more than just a sport. It is more like a journey through time, making Merida one of the weightiest destinations for global divers.
Unlike many other dive sites with historical connections, the cenotes carry an unmatched aura of mystery. This is partly because so little is known about the full extent of this vast underground river system. It is estimated that there are between 8,000 and 9,000 cenotes in the Yucatan, though many remain uncharted. Around Merida, there is something called the "Ring of Cenotes," which accounts for approximately 11-12% of these formations, creating a unique concentration of dive sites right here. This geological phenomenon traces its origins to the meteor impact that struck the peninsula 66 million years ago, an event infamous as it is the most likely cause of the extinction of the dinosaurs.
With thousands of cenotes to choose from, your dive experience here comes down to skill, preparation, and, for some, bravery. The cenotes offer something for everyone—provided you are ready to take the plunge into a world of darkness, stillness, and secrets.
Both scuba diving and freediving are options, but not all cenotes are created equal. Diving in this region requires, at minimum, an Advanced Open Water certification and a knowledgeable local guide who understands the complexities of these systems. Clear dive briefings are crucial, as many cenotes open to exploration also have fully enclosed cave systems accessible only to those with Full Cave Diving training.
Two decades ago, the cenotes were virtually unknown to the outside world. Early divers here were true pioneers, mapping and documenting a system that has since attracted explorers and enthusiasts from across the globe. Yet, even today, much of this underground world remains uncharted, with new cenotes discovered regularly.
These groundbreaking explorations are conducted by divers with advanced cavern and cave certifications, following strict protocols to navigate these intricate and often dangerous sites safely. For those seeking to push their limits, the cenotes are not only a world-class destination but also an unparalleled place to pursue cavern diving and cave diving training.
When it came to seeking out guides for our dives in Merida, we sought after three things: expertise in technical cave diving, extensive local knowledge, and engagement with the Mayan community, the original custodians of these lands and sinkholes.
For generations, these communities have cared for the cenotes, recognizing them not only as vital water sources but as sacred spaces deeply embedded in their cultural and spiritual identity. Access to these cenotes often requires the permission of local families who own the land and are responsible for its protection, and sometimes an entrance fee. They manage the land collectively, ensuring that decisions about its use align with both traditional practices and the well-being of the ecosystem.
As visitors, it is critical to approach these cenotes with the utmost respect—acknowledging that we are stepping into spaces of immense cultural and historical reverence.
Over the recent years, there have been reports of mistreatment of the cenotes—from visitors leaving trash in and around the sinkholes, carving their names on the sites to mark that they have been there, trespassing in places they should not go, and going with unaccredited guides to complex sites that are out of their depths.
Do not get me wrong, this type of destructive behavior is more ubiquitous than you would think around global dive sites. But here, with how serious the sites are and how culturally relevant they are to the community, this destructive behavior can cause issues far greater than what one might expect.
After all, these sites are quite literally considered portals to the underworld in Mayan culture. The last thing a diver wants is to push the limits and feel the repercussions of mythology that has long been reigning here.
But most of the time, diving the cenotes is a beautiful, calming experience that feels like a journey back in time. With water temperatures holding steady at 77–78°F (25–26°C) year-round, we stayed warm in 3mm wetsuits.
The sites are as stunning topside as they are below, with lush overgrowth framing the entrances and animals like birds, bats, and insects adding life to the scene.
Underwater, the unique formations and occasional Mayan artifacts offer glimpses into a past world, making each descent feel like an archaeological dive into history. Before our dives, we often found ourselves jumping off cenote ledges, swimming in flawless waters, and soaking in the stillness of these sacred spaces. We would start in the early morning and dive until dusk, capping off each day with traditional Mayan meals shared with the families who manage the cenotes.
Diving here is about participating in a dialogue with the people who have preserved these places for centuries. By working with dive centers that honor these relationships and follow local protocols, we help support the stewardship efforts of the Mayan communities while gaining a deeper connection to the places we explore. We have consistently found it goes hand in hand.
Situations where we have had the privilege to connect with the communities that call these incredible sites their home have always coincided with our most memorable and impactful dives. We have learned that to dive at these impressive sites means to understand the history and the culture as best we can during our limited time at each location.
As travelers, we come and go, but the people we collaborate with while in Merida live here. While we proudly rank this place among the best dive destinations in the world, that designation comes with a responsibility: to treat these sites with care, respect, and a commitment to preserving their holistic importance.
Diving sites like these provide a rare opportunity to connect deeply with the past, learn from the present, and reflect on our place in the interconnected world. The true magic of Merida’s cenotes is not just in their beauty—it is in the connection they forge between people, history, and the awe-inspiring depths well beneath the surface.
Ready to explore the wonders of Merida’s cenotes?
Find Your Perfect Merida Dive Center
--
Andi Cross is an SSI Ambassador and lead of the Edges of Earth expedition, highlighting stories of positive ocean progress and how to explore the world more consciously. To keep up with the expedition, follow the team on Instagram, LinkedIn, TikTok, YouTube, and their website.