SSI x Edges of Earth: Discover Tanzania’s Best-Kept Secret: Chumbe Island
July 15, 2025
For many on safari in East Africa, the next stop is Zanzibar—the island of the Swahili coast of mainland Tanzania. It has gained traction as a burgeoning tourist hub in recent years, and its streets, shops, restaurants, and vibrant energy serve as a sharp contrast to the remoteness and ruggedness of safari life. One moment, you are navigating the narrow city "lanes" lined with historical buildings; the next, you are watching beach boys leap off the jetty into the ocean, performing acrobatic flips to chants and cheers that have taken off with the TikTok movement.
As you explore more, you stumble upon spots like the Darajani Fish Market and Forodhani Gardens, famous for the nightly food market where you can sample Urojo (a Zanzibari soup), Zanzibar pizza, or even fresh fruits and sugar cane juice. But the real essence of Zanzibar lies in its nickname—the "Spice Island." Renowned for its production of cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and more, the island is all about its spice tours that get you closer to its cultural and historical heritage. Every local we met insisted we tour the plantations and learn about what the island truly had to offer, pushing us to not only dive around Zanzibar, but to taste it too.
Exploring Chumbe Island Coral Park
However, while the island is known for its luxury resorts and high-end escapes, there is a different side to Zanzibar for travelers on a mission to find nature-based experiences. Many people venture to Nakupenda Sandbank, the whitest sand strip in all of East Africa. But there are also some ethical concerns with some of the more "natural offerings" the island presents.
Locals strongly advised us against visiting Prison Island, where tourists can be found riding Aldabra giant tortoises—one of the largest in the world, weighing up to 550 pounds and living over 100 years. Native to Aldabra Atoll in the Seychelles, they are a species that once thrived across the Indian Ocean but have become increasingly rare due to habitat loss and exploitation.
But we were heading somewhere else—somewhere even more off the trodden path and a place that would bring us just about as close to living in the wild as possible. A quick 20-minute boat ride from the mainland took us to Chumbe Island Coral Park (CHIOP), the world’s first privately managed marine protected area (M-PPA), established in the early 1990s. Chumbe Island is one of the most pronounced marine conservation success stories we have heard, but it is also an example of what happens when ecotourism directly funds the preservation of nature.
CHIOP combines a no-take marine sanctuary with a thriving forest reserve. Here, everything from the colossal coconut crabs to the endangered Ader’s Duiker—a small and rare antelope that was relocated here for its protection—lives alongside one of the most intact reef systems in East Africa. With 90% of the coral species found in the region represented here, the reef boasts over 200 types of coral, providing a habitat for more than 500 species of reef fish, as well as predators like blacktip reef sharks.
Scuba diving is not allowed within the protected area, a rule that has helped keep the reef in near-perfect condition for over three decades. We were quite honestly eager to shed our dive gear for a change, as the last year of expedition life had us on a fairly rigid and aggressive scuba circuit. Here, we would need no more than a mask, fins, snorkel, and weight belt to submerge into Zanzibar’s true wild.
Before getting to freediving, we needed to settle into our accommodation, which was an experience in and of itself. Chumbe Island’s eco-bungalows are entirely off-grid, designed to operate with zero impact on the environment. Rainwater catchment systems supply fresh water, solar panels generate electricity, and composting toilets ensure no pollution reaches the reef or surrounding waters.
This is not luxury in the traditional sense—but it is a kind of luxury that is becoming increasingly rare. Waking up to the sound of birdsong in a secluded jungle, surrounded by an untouched coastline, is a reminder of what life can feel like when you are completely disconnected from modernity.
We were there to follow the island’s Head Ranger, Omari Nyange Ame, to see the conservation efforts that have been pursued on the island and continue to this very day. Omari has been here from the beginning, helping to establish CHIOP in the early 1990s.
Back then, the idea of an M-PPA was unheard of, and convincing local fishing communities to stop using the island and its surrounding reef was no easy task. Fishermen had camped on the island for generations, relying on its waters for their livelihoods, leaving many resistant to change. Over time, through outreach, education, and tangible results, the team earned the trust of the community. That is because they were able to show how protecting Chumbe Island not only helped biodiversity but also boosted fish stocks in surrounding waters. Today, Chumbe Island is recognized globally as a model of sustainable conservation, and Omari has been at the heart of it all.
But despite the successes of Chumbe’s efforts thus far, they still are facing their fair share of trials and tribulations in the throes of climate change. Rising sea temperatures have led to coral bleaching events worldwide, and Chumbe Island is no exception. However, the reef here has shown remarkable resilience thanks to the no-take zone and the absence of human stressors like overfishing and ocean pollution. Coral monitoring programs, temperature loggers, and partnerships with institutions like the University of Dar es Salaam have allowed the team to track changes and respond quickly to threats.
Chumbe Island is also piloting innovative projects to tackle climate challenges, including plans to introduce a solar-powered desalination plant to reduce reliance on increasingly unpredictable rainwater. They are working with researchers to identify resilient coral species and exploring methods to use coral larvae to reseed damaged areas throughout Zanzibar. These efforts, combined with educational programs for local communities and visitors, aim to create a repeatable plan for climate resilience—not just for Chumbe Island, but for reefs worldwide.
However, the absolute best part of visiting CHIOP was snorkeling with a group of local school children who were experiencing reefs for the very first time. This small, energetic group reminded us of why we do the things we do. We heard about their lives, their dreams, and their deepening connection to the ocean. Most of the students had never been in the water before, while a few were already comfortable swimmers. The Coral Park team, experienced and patient, guided them every step of the way, adapting to all experience levels.
The kids were captivated by the coral colors, pointing out their favorites and asking what each one was with a sense of genuine awe. They peppered us with questions about what it takes to become a scuba diver or freediver, starting to chart out their plan for how they too could become one. At first, many were hesitant to put their heads underwater, but once they did, the fear passed and was replaced with wide-eyed wonder. It was clear they were hooked, and it brought us back to some of our first reef dives and snorkels, which felt so long ago.
Chumbe’s education program is designed to inspire exactly this kind of transformation. By bringing Tanzanian children and teenagers face-to-face with the ocean’s beauty and fragility, the program aims to create the next generation of ocean ambassadors. It helped that many of these teens knew about climate change already.
It was not a subject they were shying away from, and in fact, they were quick to express their concerns about it. However, they all had an optimism about them that was youthful and refreshing, stating that they believe that the impacts will be mitigated here on Chumbe Island because of all the work that is being done.
For these students, their first glimpse of the reef was something of a "spark." They told us they hoped to improve their swimming skills, dive deeper, and explore farther. Holding the hands of girls just beginning to kick through the water, seeing their eyes beneath their masks brimming with excitement and potential, brought everything into focus. These moments, where the ocean touches someone’s heart for the first time, are why we keep diving and keep sharing our love for this incredible underwater world.
If you are going diving in Zanzibar, consider going just a bit further beyond the main island. Make your way to CHIOP, explore the reef sanctuary with the ranger team, immerse yourself in nature, and let yourself fall in love with the ocean all over again. Cherish the fact that sanctuaries like this still exist.
As the world changes, places like Chumbe Island have become increasingly rare. This island is a blueprint for others—a powerful example of what is possible when people unite to protect what they love, driven by a shared vision for the future.
Plan your visit to Chumbe Island and witness firsthand what dedicated marine conservation can achieve. Explore its thriving waters, learn from the ranger team, and support efforts that protect our oceans.
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Andi Cross is an SSI Ambassador and lead of the Edges of Earth expedition, highlighting stories of positive ocean progress and how to explore the world more consciously. To keep up with the expedition, follow the team on Instagram, LinkedIn, TikTok, YouTube, and their website